Temples and mounds in Korea

The most renowned place for Korean history and artifacts dating back a 1000 or more years is Gyeongyu on the south east coast, often called "the museum without walls". We landed off the ferry at Busan and headed north to this UNESCO World Heritage area, to see its temples and "burial mounds" that have the grand name of "tumuli". Japanese invasions and colonial depredations have taken their toll but there is still plenty to see, and the government is realising the financial benefits of tourism - very undeveloped in Korea, we would say - and getting the places renovated and restored. Its largest and most impressive temple is Bulguksa, pictured here, with restored painted eaves, and stone carved pagodas. Near Bulguksa is Seokguram Grotto, famous for its huge stone carving of a buddha set among the mists which, apparently, are present more often than they are not - as was the case on our visit there. No renowned sights of the mountains we were in that day!

In the town/city of Gyeongyu itself is Tumuli Park where these burial mounds from the Shilla dynasty monarchs dominate. The double-breasted one is very typical of them. They have excavated them all and found a huge deposit of artifacts that reveal a remarkably advanced and skillful culture. The most famous is the gold crown and gold belt, delicate work that is astonishingly well preserved after 1500 years of internment.